The Smoke that Thunders
Posted by David Saevitzon | Filed under Elephant Highway, Tour Stages, Uncategorized
Maun, Botswana, April 22, 2010
April 11 – April 22 : Lusaka Zambia to Maun, Botswana
Livingston Zambia Update:
Good roads and favorable winds helped us cover 1,250 km over the last 8 days – averaging 150km a day. These long distances will continue as we exit Zambia and head off tomorrow for Botswana. Zambia has been a bit of a disappointment with somewhat unexciting and monotonous terrain. Perhaps we’ve been spoilt with the spectacular vistas through the countries to the north. Riding in a peloton has been essential in getting through these tedious days while conserving as much energy as possible. It’s also permitted high-speed riding – averaging close to 30km/h – not bad on a mountain bike.
We’ve settled into a group that likes to have a ‘gentle’ sundowner when possible. Access to facilities have improved with most reasonable sized towns well served by banks, supermarkets etc. It’s kept the fare at our evening soirees up to the standards we’ve become accustomed to!
As I write we’ve got less than one month left on our expedition. I feel pretty good about my riding so far and hopefully will be able to keep it up until I reach Cape Town.
Early morning sun lights the mist over the Victoria Falls bridge as seen from the Vic Falls Hotel
When I arrived in Livingston a bunch of us immediately crossed into Zimbabwe where we had booked rooms at the famous Victoria Falls hotel. Built in 1905, it’s a throwback to the British Colonial period. The hotel is set in magnificent grounds and boasts a great view of the mist rising from the falls and the Zambezi Gorge. A short walk through the rain (mist) soaked jungle and you’re at the falls. Thunderous it is – and spectacular. Victoria Falls is the only place our cycling route covers that I’ve previously visited. I was here back in 1976.
Victoria Falls - impossible to fully photograph this is but a small portion
Mighty Zambesi Gorge
Maun Botswana Update:
We crossed into Botswana via the Kasane River ferry. Botswana is known for its long distance, flat riding conditions and it did not disappoint. We are now in the small town of Maun which we reached after 5 days of cycling through savannah and shrub-covered countryside. Kilometer after kilometer of remote bush, uninhabited but for the abundant bird and wildlife of which we (unfortunately) saw little. It was simply heads-down riding – watching the wheel in front of you.
Mighty Zambesi Gorge
Crossing into Botswana from Zambia on the Kasana Ferry
Riding the pelaton through the flats of Botswana
Early morning mist wraps our riding group - Botswana
Our evenings have alternated between bush camps (literally roadside with no facilities) and campsites usually located in the grounds of lodges. A story of contrasts. We’re able to buy a beer (or two!) at the lodges but roadside there’s pretty much nothing available. We’ve made the best of these ‘campsites’ by setting up our own ‘bush lounge’ to enjoy the African evenings.
Biltong sandwhich at one of our evening soirees
Evening bush lounge
Maun is the jumping-off point for safaris to the Okavango Delta. I decided to take a pass as I need to rest up. While fit and strong, my body is starting to feel the strain of over 3 months of continuous riding. I’d like to stay injury free for the remainder of the tour and see if I can continue my streak of riding every day since we entered Ethiopia.
Next up is Namibia which we enter on April 27. I’ll try and update the blog at our rest day in its capital Windhoek on April 29.
David Saevitzon lives in Toronto where he is a Management Consultant with T4G Limited. He will be participating in the 2010 Tour D'Afrique cycling from Cairo to Cape Town from January to May 2010. The ride will raise funds for Nelson Mandela Children's Fund (Canada) via T4G's Future Focus Foundation.
David is married and has 2 university-age kids.
April 24, 2010 at 9:40 am
Enjoyed your latest blog, once again super pics!
Had a great chat to Randi the other night…brought me up to speed with the move etc….
Savour the drive into Cape Town…will be very memorable!
April 25, 2010 at 12:06 am
Again, pictures that don’t disappoint! Keep on trucking David.
April 26, 2010 at 10:17 am
Hi David,
great photos and I’m sure it’s starting to sink in that the end is near! When I look at the map on the home page it is amazing to see the area you have covered and just how close the finish line is.
Keep taking care of you and your bike, keep nursing them to them end! Say I could help but notice that either your web site is gone wonky (large font type), or maybe the effort to update it is exceeding your available energy :-)
Take care, can’t wait to chat when you get back.
April 29, 2010 at 1:30 am
Thanks Nicholas – end is indeed in sight. Not sure why the fonts went wonky but I could not get them right and ran out of time!
May 2, 2010 at 2:02 pm
Thanks for posting this description of the part of the ride that takes you through a place I was in myself in 2006. I remember it as you describe it, though my conditions were far less difficult. It’s definitely the fauna that provide interest, not the vista. Also, if you have a chance to meet them, the Botswanese people are enchanting. I saw elephants and zebras but the creatures I think of when I look back were the wonderful people with their gentle natures.
Robin
May 9, 2010 at 2:31 am
Hi Robin – thanks for your support – agree with your assessment re the fauna. I too found the Botswana people great – friendly and straight-forward. Look forward to comparing notes back in TO.